Safari Training Calendar: San Marcos to Luling 90
Saturday was the first time we took the Raptor out on the Safari course. Our plan was to run the approximately 40 miles from San Marcos City Park to Luling Hwy 90 bridge. That stretch represents the first two legs of the Safari. This training run was going to be our first real test. Before, all we'd done was paddle on flat water. We had done the City Park to Staples (first Safari leg - 16 miles) several months ago in a plastic tandem boat as well. But running the Raptor in current with all of the obstacles was going to be an entirely different deal. Of course, starting out we had a lot of things working against us. I had to be back in Austin by 4:30 for an appointment. I had planned on 7 hours for the run, which turned out to be grossly optimistic. I figured we needed to be on the river by 8:30 if we had any chance of getting back to Austin in time. We got a late start and decided to take out at Stairtown instead, about 9 miles short of our original goal.
This run was going to be a first in a lot of ways. We were going to try out single-blade paddles for the first time, we were going to be trying out the powdered food for the first time and we were going to be using other pieces of Safari gear and rigging for the boat for the first time. So in a lot of ways, this was our first "real" training run.
For a little background, the first 90 miles of the Safari, from Aquarena Springs in San Marcos to Palmetto State Park is almost universally considered to be the most difficult portion of the race. This is because there are fast-moving currents, the channel can be very narrow and there are tons and tons of obstacles that you can run into. The obstacles are 90% trees half submerged in the river or protruding out from the bank and hanging low over the water. These tree obstacles are referred to as "sweepers" and "strainers." The other 10% are rocks barely under the surface or sticking out above the water. Most experienced Safari racers will tell you that you only have to survive the first 90 miles. After that, the river opens up wider and there are a lot fewer obstacles. The bay is difficult if the wind is up and the waves get bigger than a foot because they can cause you to flip over or they crash over the gunnels and swamp the boat. But the trees and rocks in the river are the hardest thing by far. You would have to experience it yourself to fully appreciate what I'm talking about, but let me describe a pretty typical scenario: First of all, you are in a narrow racing boat that is relatively difficult to stay in under the best of circumstances, so you are constantly paranoid about anything disrupting your balance and sending you over. These disruptions can be as simple and bumping a rock as you go over it to banging into an exposed rock as the current pushes you into it or it can be running headlong or sideways into a tangle of branches and getting poked in the eye, having poison ivy vines rake over your body, getting covered in spider webs and spiders or worse, asps. (Haven't had that happen yet.) Flipping out of the boat is bad for several reasons - it can be dangerous since you could get injured or you could drown and you can damage or destroy your boat. Plus, every time you flip you have to expend an enormous amount of energy swimming to shore, corraling the boat, dumping it, collecting and rearranging the gear and getting back in. Damaging the boat happens when the boat turns over and the current continues to push the boat and the people downstream. Eventually, the boat will hit either a tree or a rock and come to a stop. Since no one is steering the boat, it will float perpendicular to the current. When it hits a rock or a stump the current pushes on the boat until it "wraps" around the obstruction. That's when you are fucked. Most of the Safari boats, including our Raptor, are made out of expensive materials like carbon fiber and kevlar. We got a pretty good deal on ours, but we still paid a lot of money for it. Plus, add up the costs of all the gear and training time and it is a significant investment that can all be wasted if you wrap your boat. The good news is that even if you wrap your boat it can probably still be repaired. But the repairs are expensive and they add a lot of weight to the boat, which is bad for portaging and overall speed. You can see the stress level here. So you are paddling along and the river bends hard to one side. The current is moving around the bend fast and pushing against the bank. Of course, along the bank is a huge downed tree with gnarly limbs going everywhere. Your job is to enter the bend and not allow the fast-moving current to push you into the tree where you will probably flip out of the boat and be pushed bodily under the tangle of branches by the current and your boat will wrap. You have a rudder and two paddles with which to accomplish your task. You don't really know how to use either one with any skill. There you go.
Even really good experienced racers bang into obstacles, but when you are inexperienced like we are it's even worse. Banging into stuff and flipping is inevitable, so what you do when that happens becomes important. There are two rules when you flip out of the boat: 1. Do not allow your body to get between the boat and any downstream obstacle, and 2. When you fall out go immediately to the upstream end of the boat and grab it so the boat will float down longways and not crossways where it will wrap. It's the basic, "Protect Yourself First; Then Protect the Equipment" strategy.
We started out at City Park in San Marcos and made the first portage at Rio Vista. We were clumsy and slow with the portage and Robo didn't know what to do or where to go, but we made it back into the river allright. We took the left fork and portaged Thompson's Island. Again, we were clumsy and slow, but we made it okay. Sometime shortly after Thompson's Island we flipped for the first time. The current pushed us too close to the bank where overhanging branches swept us out. The water wasn't as cold as we thought it was going to be. Even though we should have expected it, we were still shocked. With some difficulty we swam the boat to a small ledge where we could stand and try to dump the boat and get back in. We achieved this with some difficulty. We made it a little further when we flipped out again. This time I was able to steer Robo around a big branch, but I steered myself right into it. (The boat is 24' long, so the bowman can pass several feet from the spot where the sternman passes.) The branch hit me about chest level and I couldn't duck under it and we went over. I tried to grab it and push off from it, but we were going too fast. The water was shallower so we were able to stand right there and dump the boat and get back in. I should mention that the routine every time we flipped was to get to a spot where we had some footing, by swimming or otherwise, dump the boat out, situate all the gear again, get back in and start paddling again. The seconds and minutes just peel off every time this happens. From a racing standpoint, flipping is a disaster. From a survival and finish-the-race standpoint, it's not as big of a deal. We learned some valuable lessons about how to rig the boat and situate gear to cut down on the time required to get going again.
We came around another tight bend and the bow of the boat made it fine, but the stern raked along the bank and a bunch of branches and vines where the rudder mechanism got tangled up. We came to a complete stop. The force was pretty violent and I thought for sure we were going to rip the rudder off the boat and be fucked. I managed to tear the vines loose and we escaped. I was sure that the rudder was at least damaged, but there was no way I could check it right then. It was still working anyway, for the time being. I don't remember if, or how many times, we flipped before the next portage at Cummins Dam, but we made the dam and our first really serious portage. The dam is a tall concrete structure and there is a twelve foot drop at the area where you have to lower the boat. I had secured ropes to the bow and stern of the boat for lowering the boat at this portage and others like it. There are angled concrete struts where you can slide the boat down. We nosed the boat down and I got on the rope at the stern to lower it down as slowly as possible. Robo got down below to catch the nose and to lower the boat the rest of the way. For our first time portaging Cummins with the Raptor I thought we did okay. It probably wasn't the fasted portage in history, but we didn't waste a lot of time and we didn't damage the boat. We got underway again below the dam. We passed through some of the other notable landmarks on the river: Broken Bone, Old Mill, Skulls Crossing, Westerfield Crossing. We made the next big portage at Martindale dam where we had to carry the boat about 100 yds down to the put in. Painful. I could tell we were making progress with sharp turns and overall maneuvering as we went. We still banged into things and we might've flipped another time or two before making Staples.
We pulled into Staples at the 3hr 40min mark. For reference, the top Safari paddlers will do the same section in about 2-1/2 hours. 3:40 is horrible. My GPS showed about 30 minutes of stoppage time, which we should probably be able to halve. I have run the same section solo in two races in 3:06 and 3:09. A tandem should be much faster. My goal for the Safari is straight up 3 hours.
I had never portaged Staples dam, so I had no idea how to go about it. There are houses on either side of the dam so you have to respect the private property and stay within the river boundaries. We pulled over and got out to assess. I put my hand in a huge pile of fresh dog shit as I was exiting the boat. The dam was not nearly as tall as Cummins or Martindale, but there was no real "easy" way to do it. Just as we were about to start lowering the boat a woman came out on her porch and told us we could portage though her yard. I thanked her profusely since going that way was much easier than going straight over the dam. We took a quick pee and food break and reentered the river.
I had never been below Staples, so this was going to be new to both of us. I had heard that Staples to Luling was the most difficult of the whole Safari, so I was steeling myself for it. Right out of the gate we had to pick a right or left channel (neither was a good option) and shoot through a narrow between sweepers. It seemed like we couldn't go more than five minutes without coming up on some tangled mess with current rushing into it. We picked our way through obstacle after obstacle and progress was slow. We flipped out a couple of times and came upon more than one spot that was simply impassable so we had to portage. We switched over to singles about ten minutes after leaving Staples. This was the very first time in my life I had paddled with a single blade. I worried that we would be less stable in the boat, but the motion was very natural. It was a little weird at first, but within 30 minutes I felt like I had it down. Single blading is about 1mph slower than double blading and you have less overall stability since you can't brace on both sides. The advantage of singling is that you can maneuver more deftly, if you are sufficiently skilled, and the most important advantage for the Safari - it is less taxing on the body.
As the miles wore on and we encountered more and more obstacles we learned new tricks and techniques with the single blade paddles. I got pretty good at using the paddle as a second rudder to really turn the nose of the boat sharply. It was pretty obvious that there was no way we were going to make Luling 90, or Stairtown, by the cutoff so we changed plans to take out at Fentress. This was only 9 miles down from Staples and 25 miles overall.
Sometime after we changed the takeout point and arranged with our ground crew by cell phone, we had our worst mishap of the day. The current was running fast into a sweeper and it knocked Robo out of the boat. I was still sitting in the back, but the boat sunk so I had to bail. Robo had the front of the boat, which violated Rule 2. I was busy trying to adhere to Rule 1 as the boat was pushing my legs downstream as my upper body was caught by the sweeper. I experienced a tense moment of fear. The rudder housing and cables raked my calf as I extracted myself from between the boat and the sweeper. As soon as the boat passedme I looked over and to my horror I saw the boat move sideways down the river and come into contact with a stump. The boat instantly filled with water and I saw the center of the boat start to flex. THE RAPTOR WAS WRAPPING!! I screamed for Robo to help me as I grabbed onto the stern and tried to pry it back. Somehow we managed to pull it back and the boat got parallel with the current again. It seemed like it took forever, but it was probably only a few seconds. I walked the boat to the bank and beached it and knelt beside it. We had just avoided our first near-wrapping episode. I was upset with Robo for violating Rule 2 and he was upset with me for being upset with him. I sat there for a second trying to calm down. I looked the boat over and it looked like there was no harm done. We got back in the boat and didn't say anything to each other for a while. I checked the GPS and realized there was no way I was going to make my appointment. I was stressed about that too. I think we might have flipped once or twice more after that. I watched the GPS and sure enough, right about mile 25 we got to Fentress. I was really happy to see the fiance' there with the truck. It was about 5pm.
We took the boat out without incident and loaded all the gear. The fiance' was very understanding about the time. (The appointment I had involved her.) I'm a very lucky guy. I was pretty tired and I forgot to take a final look at the GPS, but I think we were on the water for 6-1/2 hours and had stoppage time of 1hr. We made it about 26 miles and were 15 miles short of our original goal. From a racing standpoint, this was horrible. From a finishing and survival standpoint, not too bad.
There are a lot of things to take away from this training run. I think we improved noticeably maneuvering the boat. We had to have gained some fitness. We tried our Safari food, got experience with the portages and a completely new section of the river. I'm anxious to do the same section again to see any time improvements. I bet we flip half as much the next time around. We'll see.
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